There are few things in life that are more exciting than boarding a train, except that is, when the train concerned is a night train.

Arriving at a big station late in the evening, when the commuters have gone home, the retail outlets are shuttered, and the only passengers are rushing for the last trains, is a unique experience of stepping off the beaten track of ordinary life and starting an adventure when everyone else is heading home. The unusual (and often retro) appearance of the night train, lined up alongside the more modern rolling stock on the adjacent platforms  gives a Harry Potter-ish atmosphere to the whole experience. With blinds at some windows firmly drawn, and others open and revealing bunks and sinks and cosy compartments, and with a massive diesel or electric locomotive ticking away at the head, everything about the train suggests that this is the beginning of a very different kind of rail journey.

Over the years since I first started exploring Europe and farther afield, I’ve always made a point of taking overnight trains, partly because they are an easy and time-efficient way of travelling, but mainly because of their unique and charming atmosphere. I’ve travelled on overnight trains in Turkey, Morocco, Bosnia, Syria, Iran, Georgia, Russia, Uzbekistan, Japan, Thailand, pretty much every European country, and even the United States, but of all the overnight trains of which I’ve experienced, the one that wins hands-down, the title of ‘The Best Train Ever’ is does not require a journey across half the world, and nor need it cost a fortune neither.

The train in question is the ‘Night Riviera’ from London Paddington to Penzance. Running every night except Saturday (as even trains like a Saturday night off), it’s one of only three surviving ‘sleeper’ trains that depart each evening from the ‘Big Smoke’. The other two is the ‘Lowland’ and the Highland ‘Caledonian Sleeper’ to Scotland, but in my opinion the humble Night Riviera to the far end of Cornwall, wins all the prizes.

So what has this train got that makes it stand out?

Well, firstly it has all the good things that the two other British overnight trains do have. Passengers have lounge access at both ends of the route, where snacks and hot drinks are available and where it’s possible to have a shower. In common with the Scottish trains (it is considered bad luck to call them the Caledonian Sleepers – each are simply known by railwaymen as ‘the Scottish Train’), boarding begins an hour before departure, allowing passengers to settle into their compartments or to grab a seat in the lounge car. The lounge car is itself almost unique to British railways, existing on few trains in other parts of the world. In this case it is a plush first class carriage, with comfy seats and cosy table lamps, where it’s possible to enjoy a nightcap or snack before stumbling down the corridor to bed.

The sleeping cars are of 1980s vintage, and the compartments are of the type found on other trains throughout the world, consisting of an upper and lower bunk, a sink, and a somewhere to hang clothes. While some carriages have a distinctly 80s feel about the décor, most have now been refurbished with power sockets, stylish new furnishings, and hotel-style key cards, giving a modern flavour to an age-old mode of travel. The mattresses are comfortable, the duvets warm, the pillows ample, and the carpet, that seems to adorn every surface both horizontal and vertical, soft. The atmosphere and appearance is warm and cosy.

Less, cosy, inevitably is the walk along the corridor to the toilets. However, there are two per carriage, they are kept spotlessly clean, and can be used even when the train is stopped in a station. Having a key card also means that your stuff is safe in your compartment when you are occupied on the loo. While en-suite facilities would be nice, such things come at a premium, and as we shall see, the Night Riviera is an incredibly good value travel experience.

Everyone will have their own stories of sleep (or the lack of it) on overnight trains. Some people sleep soundly, while others talk of tossing and turning, of waking up at mysterious unadvertised halts throughout the night, of night time forays down the corridor to the loo, or of being kept awake by the train’s movement. This is the same with night trains everywhere – and all I can say from my own experience is that if you do it for two consecutive nights, you’ll always sleep well the second time!

Sleep does eventually come, often just before the steward knocks on the door with the breakfast tray. On the Night Riviera it is breakfast in bed, with a bacon roll, some biscuits, and tea or coffee, served properly with a cup, saucer, and teapot.  Sitting on the edge of the bunk, sipping a cup of tea while watching Truro Cathedral slip by, is a lovely experience. Standing half-naked at the sink, brushing your teeth while commuters on the platform at Camborne gaze idly in the window, is a more alarming experience, especially for them.

Arrival into Penzance is invariably on time. The best day to arrive is arguably a Monday, when the train gets in at 9 am, rather than the usual 8. Apart from the sleeper lounge, there’s not a lot at the station, but the town centre is a short walk away, and from the nearby bus station it’s possible to head out quickly and make the most of the day ahead at the various sights Cornwall has to offer.

The most outstanding element of the Night Riviera is the attention to detail and the standard of service. There is usually a steward for every pair of sleeping cars and they are proactive in helping passengers to find their berths, explaining how everything works, and taking orders for breakfast. Over many train journeys I’ve come across a variety of railway staff, some good, some perhaps less so, but it’s clear that those who work the Night Riviera are among the best in the railway industry. They are proud of their train and this comes across in the service they provide for their passengers. They know when you need to be looked after and – importantly on a night train – they also know when to leave you alone. When the railway wants to do things well, it always rises to the challenge – and this is certainly the case on the Night Riviera.

Fares and accommodation types

Although the Night Riviera conveys ordinary seated coaches, which are accessible with ordinary tickets, for the experience I’ve just described, you’ll need to book a berth. Unlike a similar journey in continental Europe, this is not outrageously expensive. A single compartment (they call them ‘cabins’ on this service) can be obtained for as little as £49 one way if snapped up when bookings first open (around 12 weeks before departure), However these sell out very quickly, so expect fares to start from around £79 in reality, rising to £120 nearer to the day of departure – and possibly much higher if demand is high. The most that I have paid is £89, but then I tend to book at least a month ahead. It is not unknown for all the berths to completely sell out. Despite the fact that almost everyone you’ve ever met in your life has never travelled on this train, it is a popular service. While it is cheaper to share a twin compartment, it is not much more expensive to sleep alone. In contrast, the cheapest single compartment on the Vienna to Bucharest ‘Dacia Express’ is around £130 and that is without the luxurious trimmings you get on the Night Riviera!

Compartments are configured as either singles or twins (‘twin’ here meaning bunk beds). If you book a ‘single’ or ‘solo’ cabin, there will usually be just the one lower bunk. Couples travelling together can book a twin compartment and argue about who will go on top. Or if they book over the phone (as opposed to online) they can book two singles with an interconnecting door which they keep open – or firmly locked shut – as they prefer. Families can also book (over the phone) a pair of connecting twin cabins, thus making up a kind of suite.

The best way to book this service is with the Great Western Railway website, www.gwr.com. The best way to find out everything else you need about this service is on the amazing rail travel information hub of www.seat61.com

I hope this little description will tempt you to go and do likewise. Please do, it is well worth the trip.